The Joys of Blogging

Well, that’s done.

Some of you may have noticed some certificate errors when trying to read the site. I’ve updated the SSLs with help from Bluehost. Sadly, their security side is as bad as the Bluehost support is good. I was going to post screen-caps of the conversation I had with SiteLink, but I’d rather let sleeping dogs lie and be the better person. In any event, there were no posts for a bit.

But I’m back up and posting!

First off, here’s a glimpse at a major project that we are working on for next year:

There, behind the primed resin vehicles…

That’s right. Aircraft. But which ones?

The Armstrong Whitworth Albermarle

That’s right. A very obscure aircraft, though it shouldn’t be. It was the primary air drop and glider tug aircraft in the Med and on D-Day for the 6th Airborne Division. There weren’t any models of these on the market anymore, so I worked with a designer at Shapeways at the recommendation of Fitz (from Shouting into the Void in NZ). Some discussions and a few weeks later and the design was ready. Then I had it printed and shipped. It was pretty neat to hold the first 1/100 scale Albermarle in existence (or at least since the Second World War). They are printed in black nylon with good detail. Sadly, some of the turret guns were damaged in transit, but Lucius has fixed them up and primed them already.

Primed with wire for the upper guns. And yes. Taping for invasion stripes

So what are we doing with them? I’ll update you in a bit, but Operation Tonga is a part of it.

In other news,

Some of the resin vehicles are taking shape!

I apologize for the poor picture. My camera is hors de combat right now.

A bit clearer, here’s the M4

I’m quite happy with the Sherman. The Pz II Luchs gun broke off just as I set up the shot above. The barrel is considerably thinner than the same 20mm on the 222, but c’est la vie. As Fall approaches I hope to have these sorted soon. My Tiger II and Humber are partly primed, but as I ran out of primer, I haven’t coated them in their primary colour yet. My FJs are also (slowly) coming together, but they won’t show their mugs on here until they’re done.

Anyway, it’s nice to be up and blogging again. I really enjoy the act of blogging, and the forcing function to move things along is also useful.

More later!

Review of Warlord 28mm Resin WW2 Vehicles Pt 2

Part 1 can be found here.

I’ve assembled 5 of the vehicles and have some more points to note. That Opel will be tackled. Someday.

Sdkfz 222

The Sdkfz 222
A nice and simple kit

No issues to report. This is a solid kit that is easy to fit together.

Pz II Luchs

Good detail
A nice kit

This tank needed some work with the tracks to get them to sit properly. Using heat to warp the pieces to make them fit does work, but track pieces are short and so harder to fix. Otherwise the kit is solid and VERY quick to get ready for priming. This is my favourite kit of the 6.

Tiger II

A beast!

I like this kit, despite its problems. The turret plug is too large for the hole, so I filed it down – a lot. This is not a big deal, but it detracts as it shouldn’t be hard to get the measurements a little more correct. The tracks needed a lot of cleaning and to be warped back towards true, so they were run under hot water as I watched the World Cup on my computer. The track shields/schurzen were frustrating. They do not fit on well, and so are super-glued on there well enough. I dislike doing things ‘well enough’ but hopefully attention will be drawn by the size of this beast and its main gun. Of all the kits, this one needs an assembly guide and hints on what to put on first. I luckily dry fit most parts but had I not, there would have been much sailor talk.

Track problems. And yes, I did try everything to get a tighter fit. I will fill some gaps and leave the rest as I bet these weren’t soldier-proof in the real world

Sherman V

The Sherman has an alignment problem with its track pieces. The holes and joining lugs do not line up. See the picture below. This is amateur hour and disappointing on what is otherwise a good kit. The folks at Warlord should look at redoing the moulds to fix simple errors like this (and to reduce the amount of flash and sprue bits). It detracts from the kit and once something obvious and simple like this is seen, the natural tendency is to look for other issues. Luckily, the problem was simple to solve: I simply cut off the alignment pieces on both track pieces and put it together.

Pretty obvious issue here…

The drive lights and light guards are really fiddly. Too fiddly in fact. But they’re on there. Having worn green for a few years, the typical way of unbreaking a vehicle was brute force, (the vehicle techs use a slightly harsher verb of “unf%^1ng”. Seriously. I’ve heard a senior NCO yell at corporals to take a mobile repair team or MRT out to unf$#* a truck many-a-time). Please, don’t do that with these parts of this kit, either with the language or with the brute force bit. It won’t end well. Tweezers will drop. Fingers will be used to save the day. Your fingers may end up glued together. Or to the glacis. Just saying.

A Sherman, glacis is free of all fingers
My second favourite of the bunch, but design issues should be corrected

Humber Armoured Car Mk II

This kit is very similar to the Sdkfz 222 and simple to assemble. The extra hatch on the turret (that is for some reason not part of the moulded turret) has gone missing or never arrived. I will be filling in the gap before priming. This kit really could use an instruction sheet for what goes where, as there was much googling, just like with the Tiger II.

The car with missing hatch

I will be doing a bit of filling with green stuff and then priming. I will keep reporting on these to the painting stage.

A final note: condolences to England fans. I’m not a great fan of football, but I have been following this World Cup. England did very well (in my amateur estimation) and have made me interested in following the sport more closely. It was a good run.

Sarissa Precision Review

I bought some Sarissa Precision buildings for the upcoming Arnhem campaign that Lucius and I are going to be playing. I’ve managed to get my hands on some of the aerial reconnaissance photos and that, plus the Arnhem campaign in WSS 74 have made it easy to plan for the terrain we need.

In any event, here are the first three builds:

The small house, ruined house, and ruined farm house

These three buildings were fast, easy builds. I have left off the window and door treatments as I’m getting together bits of cast-off MDF to make some rubble piles etc before painting. I am very happy with my purchases of these, especially considering the postage (through Warlord) was free, which isn’t nothing considering Vancouver Island’s distance from most places.

The chateau though, well, had me calling it Sarissa Imprecision and using choice sailor-language (in my mind only, of course). I have built Warbases MDFbuildings (excellent), Terrains4Games MDF buildings (also excellent), and the above buildings. I guess I got spoiled as this kit is terrible.

Let’s start with the ground floor. I put on the door and window treatments (thank goodness) as I figured that they would possibly interact with the construction. The back doorframe prevents the attachment of a whole railing piece and needed to be cut down to size. Which was frustrating and an indication of things to come. When putting the ground floor on the base, the floor wouldn’t sit all the way down. I tried everything, including disassembling the whole thing, but the way it is, there is a small gap at the bottom. Not enough to cause a huge issue as I’m sure it will be covered with flock.

The middle floor was okay, though the walls don’t sit IN the floor (the other kits have two walls sitting in holes, with the others coming on as end pieces so they are much more solid), which makes their placement fiddly. The floor itself though, won’t match up with the walls of the ground floor. The 2mm MDF walls just aren’t true enough and the placement of the holes is off just enough. So I figured I’d have to trim the tabs (I’m calling them tabs/joining lugs for lack of better term) to make it sit flush. Not the end of the world.

Next the top floor with the pretty garbled windows. That is not a typo. I had to use sandpaper and a modelling knife to get the roof pieces fit over the frames. This wasn’t a small misalignment but a major oversight. Fixing it was quite fiddly work and really annoying. If I’m paying $40 USD for a product I expect it to actually do what it is supposed to. I finally convinced the roof to fit on, and used the widow’s walk floor to help keep things aligned. Incidentally, if you want to remove the top and place troops inside, well, bring a lever. I’m not sure how or if this is going to work once this is painted as the roof top is not easy to remove. It may involve me cutting tabs off to make this go.

The troublesome chateau

From a distance, it looks good, but it will need the joining lugs cut on the walls, floors, roof supports. After finishing, I took a look for others with issues, and it turns out that I’m not alone, another blogger noticed the same railing issue. That was enough validation for me to tell me that there are more issues with this kit than with my modelling skills.

So, if you are looking for good MDF buildings, Sarissa’s smaller models are great, and worth the money, but avoid the chateau until they sort out of the problems.

Flowers and a Wash

Well, summer has arrived here on the Island. The grey is gone, and we won’t have rain for another few months. For now, the grass is still green and my roses are very happy.

Yesterday this was just a bud.
My happy flowers offset my less than happy models

The weekend was busy and hot (over 30 degrees Celsius which is hot for here). My house has no shade from any large trees (almost all of my trees are fruit trees or ornamental) so it heats up a lot, especially in the addition where I wargame and paint. I did not expect any challenges due to the heat but I’m learning.

I was putting a wash on my FJ supports and it got warm enough to separate the wash a bit.

The wash pooled a bit on the Tiger

The Tiger looks pretty good, the PAK 40 was fine, but the Hanomag however… well, see for yourself.

The wash became sticky immediately and pooled

The end result is that the vehicles look pretty dirty. I will be adding camouflage paint (and painting the interior and the stowage), so it’s not a total loss but it is a frustration.