WAT (and some unrelated bits at the end)

Well, a week late, but Lucius and I managed to get a few games in of What A Tanker (WAT), by TFL. We were using my rule modifications for activations and really trying to see if we could make it work, so sadly there are few pictures as we were focusing on seeing how these rules played. Next time I’ll get a better narrative battle done. Please note that I’ve put our final version of our house rules later in this post.

The rest of the TFL’s rulesets are all about leadership as a resource. In Chain of Command, for instance, you need to use your activations wisely IOT win a game. In WAT, with the rules as written, it’s a crap shoot. In earlier games we played, we both had tanks that could do everything but fire. This got frustrating and wasn’t realistic. It was good for a silly game, but we wanted something more as the rest of the rules are robust and interesting. Using a 2d6 activation system to generate activations, this problem is solved. You get limited generic activations and 2d6 is a very easy to do math for.

With these modifications you can chose to reload where you stand (and risk being shot), or to jockey back and then reload to re-engage or re-deploy (which is, incidentally, what real tanks do). You really need to think about what you are doing and what your enemy is doing. This makes the use of terrain, cover, fire and movement as a team with other tanks, etc, more important.

The battlefield. Once again, the Cigar Box mat looks great in real life, but photographs as much muddier in colour

We played a game of 3 tanks on 3 as our first test run. I used 2 x T34/85s and 1 x IS-2. Lucius had a Firefly (captured?), a Tiger, and a Panther G. I was able to take the Tiger out with my IS-2 early on.

Tiger looks to dominate a wide field of fire. But wait…
Look closer – in red is my IS-2 lining up a kill

Lucius managed to turn my flank with his fast moving Panther on my right and destroy one of my T-34s by sandwiching it between his Firefly and Panther. I did get a chance to ram the Firefly before that tank died at least.

My other tanks moved into position and flanked the remaining German tanks. Their better positioning, and having less damage, meant that  I was able to knock out the other tanks after a bit of terrible shooting (missing 2 of 3 shots at point blank range with my IS-2). IS-2s are beasts, and the “fast” rule for T-34/85s give them real options on the field with their good strike and armour. I really enjoyed playing them. I think my Soviets will grace the table more often.

After that fight, Lucius and I tried some Tiger on IS-2 action as they are equal point cost in the book. It was fast and furious and the rules seem to stand up to initial scrutiny. I think that these modifications will stand as our go-to for armoured combat for the time being.

SPQVI’s Rule Modifications for WAT

Initiative

Unchanged. Note that activation dice can affect initiative in the following round.

Activation

Instead of rolling Command Dice, roll 2d6 with modifiers and compare the total to the following table:

Modified Roll          Result
2                                   1 action, -1 to next round initiative
7                                   2 actions
10                                 3 actions
12                                 3 actions, +1 to next round initiative

*On a natural 11-12, you gain a wild die. Wild dice no longer shift actions or add actions, but otherwise are unchanged. This means wild dice can still be used to remove temporary damage or to add to aiming/shooting.

Modifiers

+1: experienced
+2: veteran
+3: ace
-1: per point of damage incurred
-1: 2 man turret
-1: conscript
-2: 1 man turret

A conscript T-26 would have a -3, while a veteran Pz IV would have a +2 to die rolls until damaged.

All actions cost the same

This means that if you get 2 actions, you can move and reload. Or aim and acquire. Up to you. This will force you to use real tactics. Don’t remain in the open too long or you will be shot.

Damage

Determining damage is unchanged. Instead of losing Command dice, you suffer -1 to your activation roll for every Command dice you would have lost.

At a total modifier of -5 (including your training/tank layout) your crew bails. A poorly designed but tough tank may be hard to knock out, but easier to force the crew out.

In practice, with a -4 modifier, a tank will rarely get 2 actions (needing to roll an 11 or better on 2d6), so going below -5 would mean an average tank would not only take more damage than in the standard rules it simply would not be activate very much and  you’d never get anything done. 

Ramming

2 full move activations are required to ram (down from 3 Drive dice). These activations must include 2 dice of movement between the activations. So pivot, move, move, ram, is allowed.

Fast

Add 2″ to your movement roll (not to individual dice).

Slow

Subtract 2″ from your total movement roll (not to individual dice).

So there they are. They worked well enough for us, and if you have any comments, questions, or quibbles, please comment or email. I’d love to hear what others think of these changes.

In Other News (the promised unrelated bits at the end)

My free BP2 figure has been painted up by Lucius. Once again he did a wonderful job. This officer may find himself fighting alongside a landing party in Sharp Practice in the future.

The Lucky RN officer himself

I’ve slowly moved ahead on my wire fencing while getting other small bits ready for Arnhem.

My first batch of fencing is built, undercoated with burnt umber, and had the initial flock applied

As you can see, the ground has been painted and the first flocking is done. I’ll be gluing in the wires next, and then finishing the bases. I’m pretty happy with how they’re looking.

The first batch getting ready for me to finish them

The hedges are made from some craft supply wreath material that comes in sheets. I cut strips, folded them in half and then glued them to a balsa base. I think they work pretty well, especially considering the limited time and effort involved.

Once this fencing is done, I’ll be painting up some buildings and making some scatter terrain and tree bases. Then, once our troops are all painted, we’ll be ready to play the Arnhem campaign (finally). The good news is that once we have our forces and terrain ready, prepping for future campaigns will be so much easier.

 

 

A (Canadian) Thanksgiving Meli-Melo

Well, it has been a long (Canadian) Thanksgiving weekend. We had 2 turkey dinners and so will have leftovers for some time!

There’s a wide range of small updates that I’ll throw here rather than making many small posts (meli-melo means mismash in Canada’s other official language). Here comes the shotgun approach to posting:
  • I’ve been assembling terrain in preparation for Arnhem. I’m prepping buildings for painting and decided to use some woodfiller over the MDF plugs/lugs. I’m interested to see if it works as it was fairly quick to cover the joins.
First bit of filler over the joining lugs. I sanded it after this. More pictures once it’s painted
  • As part of getting ready for the Arnhem I’m making fencing. The scenarios call for wire fencing – linear obstacles that provide no cover. I do have about 8′ of 15mm fences that would work in a pinch, but inspired by John Bond’s work I figured I would make some wire fencing. I happen to have a fair bit of balsa kicking around as well as several hundred craft matchsticks. So, my plan was to push the matchsticks into the balsa, secure with white glue and then tie some thin picture wire I got from the dollar store. Alas, it was not to be. The wire was too strong (the balsa was too weak – MDF would be much better) and broke the matchstick posts off the balsa. Okay. So try to wire the posts together and then mount them! Nope. The wire was a little too strong and kept wanting to pull in one direction or another. I almost gave up but came up with another plan. There was no way I was going to be creating terrain as nice as John Bond, my goal was to look good at 2 or 3 feet. So, cheat! I tied wire around the sticks and then cut the excess off. Then, mount the matchsticks and superglue straight sections of wire in place, kind of like rigging a small model. And it works! So, I have a bunch of fences I’ll be assembling this week. My plan is to rig the fences, paint an undercoat, then flock and put rust on the wire. We’ll see how they look in the end.
A fuzzy picture of my first test piece. Yes, the wire is a bit too loose, but this was my first success of any sort so it remains!
  • Next up will be assembling and painting 2 sprues of FJs I just bought. More FJs? Yes. I’m intending to emulate Tiny Hordes (more here) and make some entrenchments using blue foam, cardboard, and clay. Once the fences are done I’ll be doing a post on how that works.
  • I recently purchased some roads and walls from Fat Frank on ebay. They look great. The walls are based on cork, the roads on rubber. The roads are scaled for 20-28mm and intended for small paths. They look great for a small country road for 28mm, fitting a Tiger’s tracks with a little room to spare.
A small road for 28mm vehicles
The walls look great. They are high enough that figures need to be standing tall to see/shoot over them. I think they’ll do well for enclosures
The roads also work for 15mm well enough as you can see.
15mm Soviets pushing forward on the new roads
The service was very prompt and quite reasonably priced. I know that making roads and walls isn’t impossible, but I needed to balance the time and energy required to do so versus the cost of the pieces. I’m quite happy with this purchase and may add to my collection in the near future.
  • And now – pretty!
The Uhlan
Another view
Lucius not only did a blog post om his North Novas last week, he also painted up one of my Warlord Uhlans. He’s pretty much done his WW2 stuff and is enjoying the Napoleonic uniforms. Lucius was a modeller before becoming a wargamer and as you can see, his pedigree shines through. I am still doing paint by number and hoping to improve. We are slowly getting forces to play some small Sharp Practice with a campaign centred around a certain Richard something. This will be sometime in the future but the forces are slowly coming together.
  • Another bit of news is this:
Shiny and new!
I received the new 2nd Edition Black Powder along with the heroic “Lucky” naval officer! I must say, the sculpt is incredible. I shall see if I can convince Lucius to paint him up! We have a lot of 15mm Napoleonics and are intending to use Black Powder and General D’Armeé for them. I have my Franco-Prussians that are spoiling for a fight so we can trot them out for fun. I’m hoping to try the rules in the next few weeks.
  • In other news, G+ is ending, which is too bad as I was just starting to get comfortable with it and beginning to draw some readers through it as well. This site is doing well though, with more readers every month. I’m still enjoying updating it so SPQVI will not be going anywhere.
  • This week I’ll be putting up another play report from my last OSR game. I’m also hoping to playtest my modified What A Tanker ideas. I think I shall bring out my Soviets to play against Lucius’ Germans…
  • Last but not least is the announcement of “The Cruel Sea”, (Beasts of War news here) a new naval warfare game that pits the light coastal forces against E-Boats! It is due to be released by Warlord Games around Christmas time. I am very excited about it – I have read a fair bit about MTB and MGB operations and the idea of fighting duels out on the tabletop is wonderful. The only thing I’m concerned about is the scale, but I shall try it out with the starter package and then, if necessary, buy other models. Won’t my wife be thrilled…
BT.

The Man-Cold Has Come!

I apologize for the lack of posting. I was struck by a vicious man-cold (conveniently during a very busy week) and laid low.

I am feeling better now, but there hasn’t been much gaming-related work in the past week. I have managed to assemble the Warbases Late-Roman Church. It is a solid kit, but with many little parts dry-fitting is a must. Sadly, it must wait for finishing as I’m trying to get some terrain done for our upcoming Arnhem campaign.

The Church
From the front
The roof is removable, and there is a lot of room for people hiding in the shadows…

I’m excited for when I do have time to turn to this kit. The interior begs for some interesting treatments. It is a little small on the interior, but if you were to build this to scale there would be no room on the table.

Waiting in the nave…

I think they’ve done a good job at balancing the look of the building and playability.  There are bound to be assassins waiting in the shadowed arches… Warbases has a done a great job with this kit.

I’ve also been slowly building Warbases low wall for WW2 wargaming. These are great little walls. They are quick and simple to assemble. I did wrap them with some weak elastic bands to keep their form.

Low stone walls with short columns

The walls are low enough for standing figures to fire over.

A good defensive position

These walls will be given a textured finish in the coming days. I have about 4′ of these so they’ll be giving definition to fields and yards.

The last bit of work I managed to get done, was finishing up my Frostgrave Cultists. These figures I’m using as Red Cap goblins in my RPG. I’ve had them almost finished for some time so last night I did a last overview and then a thick dark wash. I’ve purposely left them a little plain, so once I’ve finished flocking their bases they’re done in my eyes.

My Red Caps. Kitbashed from a Frostgrave Cultists, Warlord Celts and Greeks, and some Gripping Beast Late Romans

The kit itself is pretty good, and provides a solid variety of options. I have used the undead parts to make some undead Saxons/Vikings, and have added shields from a variety of Warlord and Gripping Beasts.

Lastly, I’ve continued to add some blogs. Miles (at Lair of the Uber Geek) has recommended The Man Cave. Please take a look on the side as I slowly get the wargames blogs organized.

I’m hoping to get a fair bit done in the coming days (including the promised post from Lucius about his Brits) as work has settled down, and my man-cold has finally fled.

Happy Gaming!

 

 

 

Review: Timeline Miniatures MDF Outbuilding and Watchtower

I’ve been slowly increasing my terrain holdings and recently turned to on some of my Timeline Miniatures. I have never built any of their offerings, but I saw some great designs on their website and pleased to report that they are excellent in “the real.”

The outbuilding is excellent. It’s a great piece for northwestern Europe across a wide variety of time periods if you vary your roofing material. I’m intending on using it for WW2, so may be doing a tile roof on it eventually.

The product out of its bag

The pieces go together perfectly, and unlike some of their competitors, Timeline includes detailed instructions with every kit. They recommend, (and I always find it useful – even with such solid kits), to dry fit everything first.

The building dry-fitted but not glued
The fully built building

The building is a good size for a section to take up cover, or for an objective if searching for downed pilots or resistance fighters.

Some FJs to show scale. The figures are Warlord (metal and plastic)

Overall, I’m very happy with this piece. It was only 9 pounds, and was a steal. It was simple to assemble, and has great detail. I will be ordering more of the modern line from Alan (his Normandy farmhouse looks amazing).

Next up, a simple fantasy piece: a well.

All of the Timeline products come in plastic Ziploc bags with instructions

The well is a good piece, but nothing spectacular. I forgot how much I didn’t enjoy sticking MDF parts in a circle formation (as with Warbases Celtic houses) and this was no different. I prevailed and the piece is nice. It was relatively quick to put together and will do the trick.

A 28mm Blacktree Saxon for scale

Last, but not least is the Timeline Watchtower.

The beautiful watchtower kit

I was trepidatious about ordering this as many of the late Roman watchtowers on the market look wrong. They are too squat, or the tower walk is too wide etc. This tower is great.

The nicely proportioned tower. Warbases low walls in the background. More on Warbases in a future post.

The tower walk is supported by 24 supports, which was worrying. They fit in so well that it was simple to affix the walkway. In fact, everything fit wonderfully on this kit.

The view from below showing some of the many supports for the walk
The watchtower has an entrance room with fixed ladder into a guard room on the main level of the tower

As you can see, the tower makes sense. There is a ladder to get into the tower, with a lower room that can be fought over. Then another fixed ladder leads to the guard house (with a cutaway for those entering from below). Then the walk itself with its nice railings wide enough for 25mm bases. This is a perfect piece for Dux or any fantasy/medieval gaming. I highly recommend it.

Having built Warbases, Sarissa Precision, and Terrains4Games, these are by far the best quality MDF kits I’ve seen. Each company has some good points and some points that could be improved upon, but Timeline’s attention to detail, design aesthetic, and price point are excellent and outshine their competitors. I shall (to my wife’s chagrin) be purchasing more of their terrain in the near future. I hope that you check them out!